Puppies Allergic reactions to Canine Vaccines

Although most puppies hardly even notice when their puppy shots are given, and show no ill effects afterward, it's not terribly unusual for a pup to have an allergic reaction of some sort to a vaccine.


Most of the time these reactions to puppy vaccinations are mild, and last only a day or two. But occasionally they can be severe enough to need veterinary attention.


Because of this, it's a good idea to be aware of the potential sign and symptoms of an allergic reaction. These can include:

• Mild Reactions
  Most reactions are mild and symptoms can include a lump/swelling/knot at the site of the injection itself, a slight fever, lethargy or a depressed or sad looking little pup! Sometimes there will be some loss of appetite, and maybe even loose stools for a day or so. BUT, don't worry, in these cases your puppy is just feeling a little tired or 'off color' and the symptoms are short lived and don't usually need veterinary treatment. Note: Although these symptoms usually show up within a 3 - 24 hours of vaccination, they can appear much later, sometimes several days to a week after the puppy shots were given.
• Moderate Reactions
  Symptoms of a moderate allergic reaction to puppy immunizations usually involve swelling and/or hives. Often particularly noticeable around the mouth, eyes, face and neck, although welts can appear anywhere on your puppy's body.
  This kind or reaction usually occurs within a few hours of the vaccination. It can progress and become severe, so if you notice any swelling or hives appearing on your pup, take him back to the veterinarian's office right away. As an intermim measure you can give your little guy/gal some Benadryl to help reduce this swelling - but do check this with your vet first. The correct dosage for a dog is 1/2mg per pound of body weight, given every four hours. With very young pups or tiny breeds, this may not be safe... so again TALK TO YOUR VET FIRST! Veterinary treatment for this type of reaction may also include steroids and other anti-histamines.
• Severe Reactions
  The most serious allergic reaction to puppy shots is anaphylaxis. This is life-threatening and usually strikes within minutes of the vaccine being given. It may start out with vomiting/diarrhea and a loss of balance. It causes a sudden drop in your puppys' blood pressure, and generalized swelling which can result in breathing difficulties, seizures and even death.
  It's an emergency situation and if you have already left the veterinarian's office you need to get your pup back there immediately. He/she may need oxygen, IV fluids or other medical intervention, so don't waste any time.

Luckily moderate to severe allergic reactions to puppy shots are pretty rare and are generally much less of a danger to your puppy than the diseases they prevent. 



Although a puppy or dog can react badly to any canine vaccine, there seems to be a higher incidence of allergic reaction to the vaccines for Rabies, Parvo and Leptosirosis.


Also, there are some dog breeds that are more likely to experience these type of issues. They include, but aren't limited to, Miniature Dachshunds, West Highland White Terriers, Old English Sheepdogs, Akitas, Portuguese Water Dogs, Weimaraners, and Harlequin Great Danes.


So, the bottom line is that you need to watch your puppy closely for the first day or so after he's had his puppy shots. Any major reaction is most likely to occur within 24 hours (often much sooner). An allergic reaction of any sort is unlikely to happen after the first shot though, it's subsequent ones that you should pay particular attention to.


Although it's necessary to be aware of what could happen, don't panic about this! Thousands of puppies are vaccinated every day with no ill-effects, or only a very mild reaction.
Many, MANY more pups die from the diseases these canine vaccinations prevent, so protecting your puppy is vitally important.

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What should I feed my puppy?

Puppies are largely carnivores that eat some omnivorous foods.  Puppies naturally wean off their mother's milk at around 8-12 weeks of age. Wild dogs feed their young with prey animal carcases. In the wild, when young dogs are old enough (around 7-8 weeks old) they start to eat on their own whilst simultaneously decreasing the amount of milk they suckle from their mother.

Puppy feeding guide:

• Provide some variety
• Feed high quality premium commercial puppy food
• Offer some natural foods
• Natural foods include fresh raw meat such as diced up pieces of raw lamb. Avoid feeding too much raw meat off the bone while the pup is growing. This is important to avoid certain nutritional deficiencies during growth.
• Natural foods also include raw meaty bones
• Human-grade raw meat and raw meaty bones are preferable to pet meat as pet meat/pet mince/pet rolls /pet meat and bone products can contain preservatives that can be detrimental to the puppy's health (e.g. sulphite preservative induced thiamine defciency which can be fatal)  
• Between four to six months of age puppies cut their permanent teeth and grow rapidly                                                                          
  • Introducing fresh raw meaty bones at around 12 weeks of age ensures they are chewing actively around the time their permanent teeth are erupting.
  • This chewing is important to alleviate "teething" issues and also provides several important health benefits including keeping teeth and gums healthy
  • Raw bones should be introduced gradually. The bone must be large enough so that the puppy cannot fit the whole bone in its mouth or swallow the bone whole
  • Some examples include raw lamb ribs (not lamb chops though), raw lamb flaps, raw chicken wings, raw lamb tail bones
  • Too many raw bones can cause constipation. One raw bone per week is generally well-tolerated
  • 'Meaty' bones are better
  • Always supervise your puppy when eating raw bones
  • Dogs ‘like’ bones very much and sometimes become protective. Do take care and discourage young children from approaching dogs that are eating
  • Avoid large marrow bones, T-bones, 'chop' bones eg lamb cutlets, large knuckle bones or bones sawn lengthwise as dogs may crack their teeth on these 
  • Never feed cooked bones as these can splinter and cause internal damage or become an intestinal obstruction
  • Please check with your vet that raw bones are suitable for your particular puppy (eg some puppies may have misshapen jaws and may have difficulty chewing on raw bones)

• Cooked meat such as boiled chicken/lamb may also be offered occasionally. Please ensure there are no cooked bones, onions/onion sauces or other toxic substances present (see below)
• Tinned sardines in springwater; tinned tuna and tinned salmon may also be offered as a treat occasionally (take care with any fish bones). Please avoid feeding the one type of fish constantly
• A small amount of vegetable matter may be offered e.g. cooked pumpkin, carrots 
• Provide access to grass (avoid chemically treated grass and toxic plants) - puppies will sometimes eat grass which may be a source of vegetable matter and micronutrients
• Calcium powder supplements should not be given (unless directed by a veterinarian)
• Puppies should be offered food at least 4 times per day to begin with, gradually reducing the number of meals as they grow (adult dogs should be fed at least twice per day to help avoid bloat which can be fatal)
• It is important not to underfeed or overfeed puppies. For e.g. research indicates that overfeeding puppies (particularly large breeds and giant breeds) can predispose them toward musculoskeletal problems. Your vet will be able to weigh your pup, assess your pup's body condition score and provide advice
• Please ensure fresh water is available at all times

• Do not feed the following: onions, garlic, chocolate, coffee or caffeine products, bread dough, avocado, grapes, raisins, sultanas, currants, nuts including macadamia nuts, fruit stones (pits) e.g. mango seeds, apricot stones, avocado stones; fruit seeds, corncobs; green unripe tomatoes, mushrooms; the one type of fish constantly, cooked bones; small pieces of raw bone or fatty trimmings

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How can I train my puppy?

If you want your precious little puppy to grow up to be a well-behaved companion, you need to teach him or her some manners, and some basic obedience commands.

A puppy that is out of control may not seem to be a huge problem at first, but when he turns into a dog that's out of control it will be a whole different story.

A fair number of puppy FAQs center around puppy behavior, and learning what behavior is acceptable and what isn't should be some of his earliest lessons!

Puppies are very eager to please you, but they have very short attention spans and often need quite a bit of repetition before they 'get it'. If you want your pup to understand what you expect of him, there are three simple steps that you MUST follow :

• tell your puppy what you want him to do
• help him to perform that behavior
• reward him with treats and/or praise when he is successful

Several short training sessions per day are much better than one longer one. Your puppy will get bored and lose interest after a couple of minutes, and that's not what you want!

You want him to enjoy his trainings sessions and think they're a fun part of his day. Always praise your puppy when he's successful and end each session on a positive note so that he's eager to start again next time.

The first thing to teach your little one is to recognize his name. After that, the basic obedience commands that you want your pup to teach him are "sit", "come" and "down". 

Puppy FAQs also often include questions about obedience training classes, and how to choose an dog obedience training school. You can usually start your puppy off in a 'Puppy Class' after he's started his vaccination program, and is around 10 weeks old.

Some obedience schools will allow him to attend class provided he's had one or two sets of shots. Others will want to wait until he's completed the full vaccination schedule.

It's important to make sure that the dog obedience school that you choose offers classes taught by certified dog trainers. There are often more than one obedience school within your area, so call around and check them out before you enrol your pup.

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How do I introduce a new puppy to our resident dog?

So, you've got a brand new puppy to keep your older dog company, but now you're worried about his lack of enthusiasm for his new 'sibling'? Are you wondering whether you made a mistake?


 Most dogs learn to get along with a newcomer (and some super-sociable souls accept them right away), but if your older dog is treating the new baby with something less than unbridled enthusiasm he won't be the first to do so!


Here's a short puppy guide to help you overcome those first few rocky days, and help your pooches become best friends...


When choosing a new dog to integrate into your family, it's best to choose one of the opposite sex to the resident dog. Two same-sex dogs are less likely to get along as adults, especially if they're not neutered/spayed.


Also consider size and temperament, an older dog with a high prey drive may not be the best match for a puppy from a tiny, fast-moving breed such as the Yorkshire Terrier.


Make the initial introductions under supervision, and expect some hesitation on the part of either pooch. There may be a little low growling, or posturing, but most puppies instinctively submit to older, more mature dogs and once your resident dog has shown the interloper 'who's boss' things should settle down.


Always remember to show lots of affection to your older dog. It's sometimes difficult to tear yourself away from an adorable new puppy, but make a point of greeting, feeding and petting the older dog first, as it reinforces his status (in both his eyes, and the eyes of the new puppy) and helps to maintain a natural transition into the 'pecking order'.

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Deworming Puppies

When you look at that roly poly little puppy, it doesn't seem possible that it could have any problems with worms. After all, the puppy's mother seems like a very healthy, well cared for dog and worms only happen to dirty, neglected dogs, right? Actually, many veterinarians say that becoming pregnant and giving birth can cause a dog to develop worms that were lying dormant in its system. These worms can be passed on to puppies. Because of this, deworming puppies routinely is often recommended by veterinarians. 

• If your veterinarian wants to deworm your puppy, you may want to ask for a fecal exam instead, since there is no sense in giving medication to a puppy that doesn't need it. This exam shows the vet exactly which, if any, worms your dog has in its system. Often, by the time a puppy is eight weeks, it has already been wormed by the breeder's veterinarian and is worm free.
  
• Some veterinarians have discontinued routine worming because certain heartworm preventative medications claim to also kill roundworms and hookworms. They prescribe the heartworm medication and say that will take care of all worm problems. Others say that a preventative is no replacement for treatment of an infected dog. If you are concerned about worms, ask your veterinarian if your puppy's heartworm preventative can treat other types of worms.

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Is Your Family Ready For a Puppy?

You've got kids and you've got a house with a yard, so you should get a puppy, right? Actually, a puppy is not right for everyone, especially if time is something you have a short supply of at the moment. Is your family ready for a puppy?

When you have big changes coming up, such as a new baby or a move to a new home, a new puppy isn't the best idea. Puppies need a lot of care and attention. Potty training, obedience training and cuddle time are all time consuming. You don't want to end up neglecting the puppy and having it grow up to be an ill- mannered or unhappy dog.

If your family's motto is “Have passport, will travel,” you should think twice about buying a puppy. Constant trips to a kennel are not high on most dogs' to-do lists. While you can hire a sitter instead of taking the dog out of a familiar environment, your pup will still miss interacting with the family while you are traveling.

Finally, some people simply don't enjoy having their belongings ruined by puppy teeth or accidents. If this is the case, but you still want a dog, you may want to consider looking for an older animal. Many adult dogs in need of a new family have lovely dispositions and are already housebroken. Puppyfind.com often has listings for adult dogs that breeders are trying to re-home as well as listings for new puppies.

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How to Make a Puppy Drink Water

A puppy can be shy creatures at first, especially when brought home to a new surrounding. He is unsure of what's going on around him and who he can trust, so drinking water may be the last thing on his mind. On the other hand, a puppy may be full of energy, and just too busy to drink water. Staying hydrated is important for all dogs, especially puppies as they are growing and developing every day.

1. • 1
     Offer water at all times during the day for a puppy. Be sure the water is fresh, clean and free of any dirt or bugs that may have accumulated over time.
   • 2
     Add warm water to the puppy's food if he is not drinking enough water on his own. Water can be added to hard kibble or canned food to make a soup-like mixture that may be easier for the puppy to drink.
   • 3
     Take the puppy for a long walk or spend extra playtime outside to ensure that he will be thirsty and anxious to drink water when it's offered. Don't let him drink too much or this may cause indigestion.
   • 4
     Add several ice cubes to the water in the bowl. Some pets prefer cold drinking water over lukewarm water that has been sitting out for a few hours.
   • 5
     Pour a few drops of chicken or beef broth into the puppy's water bowl. The smell may entice him over and get him to drink his fair share of water for the time being.
   • 6
     Check to make sure the water bowl is situated in a safe and secure area. Lots of noise and traffic may cause the puppy to shy away from the water bowl.
   • 7
     Show the puppy the water bowl. Rustle the cool water, maybe even splashing a few drops onto the nose and muzzle of the puppy to entice him to drink on his own.

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How Are Puppies Shipped?

Puppies aren't vases or art supplies, so when you contact a breeder and hear that he or she can ship the puppy to you, your first reaction is probably shock. Before you panic, get that picture of cardboard boxes and foam peanuts out of your mind! Shipping puppies is usually quite safe and any airlines or trucking companies that take live animals have procedures in place to be sure they arrive in good health. (If the poor dog gets motion sickness, happiness may not be an option!)

Airlines will ship puppies in the cargo compartment during mild weather. It sounds a bit callous and scary, but is actually fairly safe and comfortable for the puppy, especially if there is no need for a layover or cargo transfer.

If someone is traveling with a small dog, he or she can usually request that the airline allow the pet to be stowed under the passenger's seat in lieu of carry on luggage. This is probably the safest mode of air travel, but may be more expensive, since you will be paying for an airline ticket for the human and an additional fee for the pet.

A trucking company that specializes in transporting pets is another option. The trucks will carry as many as 60 puppies, dropping off and picking up dogs on a very carefully planned route that can cover as much as half of the United States in one long road trip. 

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Puppy Obedience Training

As a new puppy owner, you may be having a hard time imagining a time when you'll have a full grown dog on your hands. However, it does happen eventually. All dogs, whether they are tiny Poodles or giant Great Danes, can benefit from puppy obedience training so that when they do grow up, they are a joy to be around.

You can probably handle teaching your puppy the basics on your own. Come is a very simple command, because your puppy is just dying to come play with you anyway. The trick is to say come every time your puppy sees you and seems about to romp over.

Sit is another command that is easy to teach. Some puppies sit on their own when a treat is held in front of them and moved back. Other puppies need a helping hand to press their backsides into position.

The down command is an extension of the sit. After your dog knows the sit command and will sit without treats, it is time to move on to the down command. Get a treat and hold it in front of your sitting puppy's nose. Slowly slide the treat down to the ground. Your puppy should naturally follow it down. If he or she doesn't lie down completely, slide the treat out a bit until it is in the proper position.

If you do have trouble teaching the basics or if you'd like to continue your puppy's training, there are probably classes for new puppies in your area.

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My puppy is constipated, what can I do to help him?

Puppies can get constipated from time to time, and often it's the small/tiny breeds that have trouble.


There are many reasons why a puppy can get constipated, and these from medical conditions to hairballs (and everything in between!). Whatever the reason behind the constipation, there are some simple remedies that you can use to help get their system moving again.


There are also a few things that you can do to prevent future episodes of puppy constipation, and the correct diet, plenty of fluids and a good amount of exercise are vital.

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My puppy has diarrhea. What can cause that and what do I do?

A lot of puppy FAQs involve this! Diarrhea in puppies is pretty common, the problem is it can be the sign of a minor tummy upset or the early stages of some serious dog illnesses.


This is one of those puppy questions where it's not necessarily easy to know the answer yourself. As there's the potential for serious problems with these puppy FAQ's, we've compiled a quick guide that will help you decide if you need to take him straight to the veterinarian's office, or if you can 'wait and see' for a few hours.


Puppies are little garbage-disposals on legs! They can, and do, eat anything and everything that's in front of them. This inevitably leads to an upset tummy (or two!), and of course, is best avoided whenever possible. However, if your puppy has diarrhea that looks has the consistency of custard, or chocolate pudding, but otherwise seems okay, chances are he's eaten something he shouldn't.


If he's not vomiting, is alert, playful and bright-eyed you can afford to wait and see for a while. 
Withold food for 12 - 24 hours to allow his digestive system to recover, but allow him as much fresh water as he wants. If he's not feeling better within 24 hours, or seems to be getting worse, call your veterinarian right away.


If your puppy's diarrhea is severe and watery, he's vomiting and/or seems lethargic, has dull eyes and looks like he feel unwell you need to get in touch with your veterinarian right away. He could be suffering from Parvo, Giardia, Coccidiosis or a number of other dog illnesses/conditions.


If it's after hours you should contact your nearest 24 hour emergency pet clinic. Look for any traces of blood in his diarrhea, this is a classic sign of the deadly disease Parvo. If he DOES have Parvo, immediate veterinary care MAY save his life!

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How do I know if my puppy has worms, and what do I do about it?

This is also high on our list of puppy FAQs, as a huge percentage of puppies have worms and if you're a new puppy parent, it's something you may well have to deal with. Some worms can be seen in your dog's feces, and in severe cases of roundworm infestation your pup may even have worms in his vomit.


Other symptoms of worm infestation include a round, distended belly, a dull, rough coat or a cough. Although very common, worms can make your puppy quite sick...at the very least he'll feel and look 'out of sorts'. The most common worms are Roundworms, your pup could also ge twhipworms, tapeworms, hookworms or heartworms.


Treatment for the first 4 types is fairly straightforward. You will need your veterinarian to diagnose and confirm the infestation, and the type of worm involved. They will then prescribe, or administer, the appropriate de-wormer. Do not use over-the-counter medications as they can be ineffective at best, and harmful at worst.


Heartworms are a different story, but you are unlikely to find these in a young puppy. They're transmitted by mosquitoes and can be deadly. Treatment is often effective if caught early enough, but it is complicated and expensive.

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What's the best way to housebreak a puppy?

This is a leading, puppy FAQs question! The simplest and easiest way to housebreak your puppy, is by using a crate. Crate-training works WITH your puppy's natural instincts and helps speeds up the whole potty training process.


Any puppy of 8 weeks of age or older can begin crate-training. A 9 - 10 week old puppy can stay in his crate for 30 mins at a time, when he reaches around 18 weeks or so, he can spend up to 6 hours per day and overnight in his crate.


However, a crated puppy needs plenty of 'free' time and one-on-one interaction with his family as well. Crates should never be used as a punishment.

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What shots does my puppy need?

Your puppy needs 3 sets of DHLPP puppy shots. The first set are usually given at approx. 7 - 8 weeks of age, and there is a 3 weeks period between each set.


The DHLPP puppy shot is a combination vaccine that protects against 5 separate diseases :

• Distemper
• Hepatitis
• Leptospirosis
• Parainfluenza
• Parvovirus

At the same time as the DHLPP shots, your puppy will be vaccinated against the Coronavirus. At 16 weeks of age he will be given his Rabies shot. After that he will need annual boosters in order to maintain his immunity.

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When Do You Begin To Give Puppies Water?

Puppies should suckle from their mother as their sole source of nutrition and hydration until 3-4 weeks of age.  Larger breed puppies can be introduced to food at 3 weeks while smaller breed puppies should not start weaning until 4 weeks.  Between three and six weeks of age a soft gruel of puppy food, water, or milk replacer should be fed.  

Full weaning from mom occurs between six and eight weeks of age.

Water can be available for the puppies (and should be available for mom) but do not be concerned if they are not drinking on their own until 3-4 weeks of age.

If any of the puppies stop nursing or mom ignores them you need to intervene immediately.

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Aggression In Puppies - Prevention And Handling Tips

How dogs behave is primarily dependent on two things: the attention and training they receive as puppies,and their genetic history (the temperament of parents, the traits emphasized by the breeder, etc). There's not much we can do about the genetics; but, if we get our dogs while they are still young, we can influence them during their most teachable months. If they are subjected to gentle, effective training during this time, even the most stubborn genetic traits can be gradually overcome.

What Constitutes Aggressive Puppy Behavior?

Puppyhood is the stage at which your dog learns how to react to new situations. Lessons learned during this period will be hard to unlearn. During puppyhood, a dog is very aware of his relatively helpless status in the house, and isn't likely to test the boundaries too much while still pre-adolescent. In a very young puppy (8 weeks to approximately 4 months) the worst behavior you are likely to get in terms of aggression will be mouthing while playing - the puppy will grip you with his teeth, which is how puppies play with each other. If your puppy bites too hard while playing, this is a cause for slight concern; evidently he doesn't have any concept of bite-inhibition yet. Perhaps he was taken from his mother too young (anything earlier than 8 weeks and the pup misses out on crucial lessons in communication and on what consitutes acceptable behavior). You will take over the role of mother: when he bites too hard, react by screaming loudly and shrilly (if you're in genuine pain, this shouldn't be too hard) and quickly turn away from the pup. Ignore all further overtures to play - pups won't play with a sibling that bites too hard, which is the first and most important lesson in bite inhibition.

Prevention

The best form of aggression treatment in a puppy is prevention. Any puppy is hard work and constitutes a serious commitment on your part - it may be several years before it has matured into a fully-grown dog capable of independently carrying out the behavior you require of it. Until that time, you will need to spend time daily with your pup, training, playing, and rewarding it for good behavior.

Rewards for Good Behavior, Ignore Bad Behavior

The most effective manner of training puppies is, fortunately, also the most humane. It isn't necessary to actively punish your puppy for poor behavior: the trick is to use your brain and emphasize rewards when the puppy acts how you want. For example, say you come across your puppy chewing a shoe. You make a grab for it, the puppy runs away with the shoe, and you chase the puppy. This is reinforcing negative behavior: the puppy has just found a wonderful new game (which involves wanton destruction of your possessions). Instead of reacting like this, the smart thing to do is to turn and run slowly away. The puppy will follow you - the natural instinct of all dogs is to chase movement. When it catches up to you, gently remove the shoe from its mouth while saying, Drop it, and substitute straight away with a more appropriate toy. As soon as the pup's teeth close around the new toy, shower him with praise. Your puppy has just learned that it pays to do what you want.

Training Can Be Fun

Training is fun, both for you and your puppy - don't think of it as a chore. You're helping to sculpt the future dog, while strengthening the developing bond between the two of you. Spend five or ten minutes a day every day training your pup in the basic commands - 'come' and 'stay' for example. Don't prolong training periods beyond this time limit, and try to end on a good note. When training's over, it's time for a play session - you want your puppy to associate obedience with fun! Train frequently, for small lengths of time, and utilize food treats and lots of praise when he does as commanded.

Socialize, Socialize, Socialize

When your puppy has had his shots, its time for his first foray into the outside world. These trips should be short and pleasant - its very important not to exhaust or overwhelm your puppy when venturing out, or he will learn to associate new situations with unpleasantness. Too much at once may make him timid and fearful in the long run. Take him for a fifteen minute walk, and then its time for home and a nap - your puppy will be more tired than you would believe possible.

Food Guarding is Unacceptable

Most dogs have a strong instinct to guard their food. If you're able to teach your puppy from an early age that the approach of humans while he's eating signifies positive things for him, you'll save yourself a lot of trouble in the long run. What might happen if you come across your adult dog one day, eating something toxic - and he won't let you near to take it off him? Badly trained dogs sometimes attack people or children who approach unexpectedly when the dog's eating. It's important not to allow this behavior to develop. The best way to go about doing this is to conceal a small treat in one hand as you approach the food bowl during meal-time. Command him to sit. (If he doesnt know this command yet, gently push his head out of the bowl and push on his hindquarters until he sits, while repeating the command.) When he does so, take the food away for a few moments; hand over the treat as you do this and praise him lavishly. Return the food after a few moments and allow him to finish. You should repeat this procedure at least once or twice a week, but never more than once during a meal as he'll just get irritated (which will undermine the whole point of the procedure!).

Your Puppy is Pliable

Puppies are almost never deliberately aggressive - the capacity for aggression doesn't exist in young creatures not yet capable of defending themselves. As the owner, you are now the defining influence in your puppy's life: what you say, goes. Your puppy may misbehave from time to time, but if you keep your calm, remember your training methods, and act like the boss, your pup will quickly learn what's acceptable and what's not.

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When Do You Change from Puppy Food to Adult Food?

You waited until your puppy was at least 8 weeks old before you brought her home. You have plenty of toys and treats. She never misses a veterinary appointment and has been fed the proper puppy diet. Now, the question is, when do you begin switching to adult dog food?

Growing puppies should only be fed a high quality growth-type diet. But the amount of food the puppy eats is also important. Pups should not be able to eat at will, so don't keep his bowl filled all the time. Overeating as the puppy grows can lead to devastating skeletal and nutritional disorders, as well as obesity. Also, supplementing his diet with vitamins and minerals can cause serious illness and should only be done on the advice of your veterinarian. 

For most breeds, offer food twice a day for 20 minutes. If your puppy does not eat in that 20 minutes, remove the Your puppy will quickly learn that food is not always available and he will eat when it is offered. For toy breeds, food should be offered three times a day. This feeding schedule can continue throughout the pup's life. If you prefer free-choice feeding, wait until the pet is at least 12 months of age. For giant breed dogs, wait until about 18 months of age. 

Once you have chosen a good quality puppy food, continue feeding this diet until your dog reaches 80 to 90 percent of his anticipated adult weight. For most dogs, this occurs around 9 months of age. 

Giant breed dogs pose a special problem. These breeds are prone to skeletal problems if not fed properly during their growing phase. There are now special diets for giant breed puppies. For optimal health, feed your giant breed pup this special diet until he is 12 to 18 months of age. 

Once your puppy has reached the age for a diet change, gradually begin changing his diet by feeding ¼ adult food and ¾ puppy food for a few days. Then add ½ adult food and ½ puppy food. After a few more days, feed ¾ adult food and ¼ puppy food. Then, you can feed straight adult food.

If you have any concerns about changing your puppy's diet, consult your veterinarian for advice. 

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How to Bathe a Puppy?

At first, new puppies are cuddly and smell sweet. But once a few days have passed, the new puppy smell turns to stinky puppy smell. This means it's time for a puppy bath. Before bathing a puppy, you should make sure that your puppy is eight weeks old or older. You should help your puppy adjust to bath time. Having your puppy sit or stand in the tub may help. If their first puppy bath is a pleasant experience, future baths will be much easier. Before the bath is over, you should make sure that your puppy is completely rinsed. Getting soap in her ears or in her eyes will ruin a first bath.

Although most dogs do enjoy playing in water, they often do not enjoy bath time. Many puppies have very delicate skin and shampoo can irritate them. It is important to use a dog shampoo that is specially formulated for puppies and their sensitive skin. Before bathing a puppy, it is recommended that the puppy be eight weeks old or older. You should only bathe a puppy once a month. An option to get you through weeks without baths is to use puppy wipes, which help you get rid of dirt while giving your puppy a fresh scent.

Breaking in your dog to enjoy baths is important. Your dog will certainly be uncomfortable at first, but if you establish a set routine your dog will feel more comfortable with baths. One suggestion is to allow the dog to sit in a water-filled tub. Pour very small amounts of water on your dog. This will help your dog acclimate to the feeling and temperature of the water. It is very likely that you will not be able to complete a bath your first attempt. You may need to try several times to get your puppy accustomed to the routine.

Before you begin bathing your puppy, make sure you have all the items you will need close at hand. Gather the puppy shampoo, a towel and something to hold water for rinsing. The latter item will help you not get water or soap in your puppy's eyes or ears. You should also keep cotton balls and a soft cloth nearby. The cotton balls are perfect for cleaning your puppy's ears. The soft cloth is used to clean your puppy's face.

Bathing a puppy can become an easy part of a dog owner's grooming process. It just takes time to create a routine that works for you and your puppy. The first bath is critical for establishing success in the future. The most important thing to remember is to use gentle shampoo on a puppy that is at least eight weeks old or older. Keep the first bath short and focus more on making the puppy comfortable instead of getting him squeaky clean. To make your life easier, have everything you need at your fingertips before you start on your puppy bath adventure.

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How to Clean and Groom Your Puppy or Dog?

It is very important to clean and groom your puppy or dog on a regular basis to keep them clean and sharp looking, and just nice to smell!

When bathing your puppy or dog, make it a fun experience for them each time, and the early your start doing it, the better. This is the time you can inspect your dog completely, so that you can notice any new cuts, scrapes, rashes, anything that you might not notice when just playing with your dog.

This is also the perfect time to inspect your puppy or dogs nails, check to see if they are too long, and need to be trimmed. Use cotton balls when cleaning the inside of the ears, never use cotton swabs, as you could damage their ears. Check inside of ears for any foul orders, a sure sign that you need a visit to your local vet. If your puppy or dog shakes his or her head a lot, and trys to scratch at it on a regular basis, your dog could have ear mites, or an infection.

If you do not wash, comb or brush your dog on a regular basis, they could end with with matts in their hair, and those are harder to get out. When matts get wet, they are harder to deal with, so you should try to get them out before the bath.

Fleas can be another big problem. Make sure you use good quality flea shampoo, and for serious problems, consult your vet at once. Your veterinarian or pet supply warehouse will also carry some more expensive solutions, that do work very well, that you can usually place on the dog once a month, to cure this problem.

In order to keep water out of your dogs ears while giving him or her a batch, you could put cotton balls just inside the ear canal, so that water does not get inside the ears, and cause a bacteria infection later.

After you get the bath ready for your puppy or dog, you do not want to get water in their eyes or ears, and you certainly do not want to put your dogs head underneath the water, unless you want your dog to panic and freak out, not a good idea at all.

Wet your puppy or dogs hair from the head down, and then apply a good quality shampoo, then lather the dog up, rinse and repeat. During the bath, it is good to talk to your dog, and tell them they are doing a good job, and they will relax more, when they hear the gentleness of your voice.

After you take your dog out of the bath, you do not want to just let him or her go outside, because they will go directly to some dirt, and roll in it, and all your work will be wasted. You should towel dry them as much as you can, and then let them air dry in a warm place, until they care completely dry, combing or brushing them until they are nice. If you do decide to use a blow dryer on your dog, make sure you set it on the lowest setting, so you don't hurt your dog.

If your dog gets so dirty, or has more matts than you know what to do with, it is best to go to a professional groomer, and let their experience work for you, and you might just learn a few tricks for next time, when you do do it yourself.

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Puppy

A puppy is a juvenille dog. Some puppies may weigh 1–3 lb (0.45–1.4 kg), while larger ones can weigh up to 15–23 lb (6.8–10 kg). All healthy puppies grow quickly after birth. A puppy's coat color may change as the puppy grows older, as is commonly seen in breeds such as the Yorkshire Terrier. In vernacular English, puppy refers specifically to dogs while pup may often be used for other mammals such as seals, giraffes, guinea pigs, or even rats.

Born after an average of 63 days of gestation, puppies emerge in an anion that is bitten off and eaten by the mother dog. Puppies begin tonurse almost immediately. If the litter exceeds six puppies, particularly if one or more are obvious runts, human intervention in hand-feeding the stronger puppies is necessary to ensure that the runts get proper nourishment and attention from the mother. As they reach one month of age, puppies are gradually weaned and begin to eat solid food. The mother may regurgitate partially digested food for the puppies or might let them eat some of her solid food such as dog treats. By the age of about seven weeks, puppies no longer depend on nursing for food. Although they may continue trying to nurse, the mother dog usually refuses after this age, though she might let them occasionally nurse for comfort.

At first, puppies spend the large majority of their time sleeping and the rest feeding. They instinctively pile together into a heap, and become distressed if separated from physical contact with their littermates, by even a short distance.

Puppies are born with a fully functional sense of smell but can't open their eyes. During their first two weeks, a puppy's senses all develop rapidly. During this stage the nose is the primary sense organ used by puppies to find their mother's teats, and to locate their litter-mates, if they become separated by a short distance. Puppies open their eyes about nine to eleven days following birth. At first, their retinas are poorly developed and their vision is poor. Puppies are not able to see as well as adult dogs. In addition, puppies' ears remain sealed until about thirteen to seventeen days after birth, after which they respond more actively to sounds. While between two to four weeks old, puppies usually begin to growl, bite, wag their tails, and bark.

Puppies develop very quickly during their first three months, particularly after their eyes and ears open and they are no longer completely dependent on their mother. Their coordination and strength improve, they spar with their litter-mates, and begin to explore the world outside the nest. They play wrestling, chase, dominance, and tug-of-war games.

Puppies are highly social animals and spend most of their waking hours interacting with either their mother or littermates.

It is important that puppies are socialized with humans, particularly between the ages of eight and twelve weeks, so as to encourage healthy interaction and develop the puppy's social skills around people. Puppies ideally should be exposed to as wide a variety of friendly people as possible during this period. Dogs that do not receive adequate socialization during this sensitive period may display fearful behavior around humans or other dogs as adults.

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